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Have It Your Way
By: Cassandra Johnson, PPAI Regional Affiliate Marketing Manager
Issue: 2006jul
Remember the old hamburger chain commercial? The restaurant workers sang “Have it your way” as they danced around the cashier stations—implying they’d fix your hamburger just the way you like it. Or how about the car rental company that “puts you in the driver seat?”
As consumers, we’re accustomed to choosing what we want and how we want it. And in today’s business world, the more choices put in the hands of customers, the better. With technology capabilities through resources such as the internet, we have the ability to customize to our own specifications the news we receive, car we drive and jeans we wear.
Promotional products have experienced similar results—especially in the wearables segment. Today, logoed apparel comprises 29 percent of sales in the promotional products industry. The consistent growth in this market segment is due largely to the wide range of choices available to end buyers. What was once a segment of button-down shirts, 50/50 tees and knit golf shirts has now expanded to include shirts of all styles and fashions, leather jackets, workout clothes and more.
This boost in fashion choices has also put a boost in the world of custom apparel. Even with a wider choice of fashions and brands, most distributors still think of corporate apparel as standardized, with particular styles available from certain suppliers. But how many times have you rifled through catalog pages and product directories to find the right shirt for a client presentation only to settle for something that wasn’t “it?” What if you could design the shirt that best fit your client’s needs? How many more sales would you be able to secure by delivering exactly what your customer wanted? Custom corporate apparel gives you these options.
WHAT DOES CUSTOM MEAN?
“Custom” has a variety of meanings in the world of promotional products. To some distributors, a custom apparel program means starting with “blanks” or pre-made shirts and then adding custom embellishments. To others, it means choosing the design, color, buttons and other fabrications. And to some, custom means starting from a clean slate—right down to the fabric.
“In some cases, we start with gray goods,” explains Doug Stayman, president of Carrollton, Texas-based supplier In Your Face Apparel (UPIC: InYou682). “We purchase fabric that’s not yet dyed, and we dye it to exact specifications, such as an exact corporate PMS color.”
When Stayman, who was a distributor for many years, couldn’t find the right shirt to present to his client, he created his own. This hands-on experience in custom apparel later led to the launch of In Your Face Apparel, which specializes in custom made-to-order, private labeling and unique embellishments.
Custom apparel is defined by many elements, but true custom design starts with the most critical step—the idea.
“Distributors send us ideas in many different ways,” explains Stayman. “I’ll get cryptic e-mails, or someone will send me a similar shirt they like. Just the other day, a distributor sent me a set of posters with images of apparel his customer liked.”
Norm Bishop, president of Vancouver, Canada-based supplier Bishop Garment Company (UPIC: bishop), says that’s what makes the business of custom apparel so—well—challenging. “It’s always interesting to see what people want. It’s usually what’s selling hot in the retail market,” says Bishop. “Every day is different, and that’s what makes this job so interesting.”
Bishop Garment has actually been around since 1949 under the name of Symax, which specialized in creating government outerwear and uniforms. Bishop and his wife bought the company nine years ago and have expanded its custom design services into the world of promotional products.
“We have in-house designers who track the trends, and we use the latest computerized technology for pattern-making,” says Bishop.
Sometimes distributors will choose to start with a stock item, and then alter it to the client’s specifications—whether it’s a wider scooped neckline, a different type of fabric or all of the above. Stayman points out, “Anything can be turned into 100-percent custom.”
Stayman’s company created a unique referee-patterned shirt that was designed like a woman’s tee for a liquor client several years ago. It was a complete custom design, right down to the fabric and style. It was so popular that this concept has now become a stock item for In Your Face Apparel.
FABRIC, EMBELLISHMENTS, SIZING AND PRIVATE LABELING
While concept is the foundation, fabric, embellishments, sizing and private labeling add the personalized touch that makes a garment unlike any other.
Fabric
Fabric is a key element in defining the end product. A first step is to consider stock items, such as microfibers, poly-spandex blends, moisture-wicking weaves or performance fleece. If the in-house choice of fabrics doesn’t suit the client’s needs, the custom manufacturers start sourcing fabrics. And, in many cases, they’ll create their own fabrics and fabric patterns.
The choice and availability of fabric is critical, as this will affect price, delivery time and the potential for future orders and re-orders. For example, if the ideal fabric must be manufactured, then the minimum requirement goes up. If the fabric must be sourced from Italy, Korea or other offshore location, then the turnaround time is effected. If the client has a potential for future reorder, then there must be enough fabric so the client doesn’t have to contend with unmatched dye lot issues.
Embellishments
A key advantage of custom apparel is the wide choice of embellishments. And, in many cases, these can be incorporated right into the manufacturing process, rather than added after the garment is made.
In Your Face Apparel specializes in one of the newest techniques on the market—watermation—a process that can be done on any natural fiber. It provides a layered printing effect that’s dyed onto the fabric before the garment is sewn.
Rhinestones and nail heads are other late-breaking trends, thanks to their popularity in the retail market. And appliqués, when stitched right into the fabric prior to sewing, produce a higher quality look and feel.
Another popular option by Bishop Garment, In Your Face Apparel and other custom suppliers is sublimation. Used on synthetic fabrics such as polyester or nylon, this technique creates images with a photographic quality on the garment.
And decoration is not just for outside the garment any more, according to Jeremy Lott, vice president for Preston, Washington-based supplier SanMar (UPIC: SNMR) and manager of SanMar’s custom apparel program. “We get requests for decorations inside the garment, such as on the banding and label,” says Lott.
Sizing
With custom apparel, the client is also in control of the sizing. And, depending on the client’s need, sizing can be an issue. “We can go all the way up to 8XL, if needed,” explains Bishop. “With custom, it’s whatever the client wants.”
Stayman explains, “What woman wants to wear a man’s shirt? With our custom program, we can size fashionable junior tees to misses sizes.”
Private Labeling
An important finishing touch to the custom garment is the option to include a private label, providing yet another opportunity to expose the client’s brand, logo and, perhaps, website address. It enhances the organization’s image and gives the client the power of brand equity.
According to Lott, the majority of his company’s orders have private labeling. “If I’m putting a Microsoft label in a custom shirt, it’s really no additional cost to me, but it adds tremendous value to the client and end user.”
Debra Harkavy, president of Morganville, New Jersey-based distributor Creative Solutions, adds, “As distributors, we sometimes use our own labels, but we first encourage our customers to use the labels. It’s a great tool for their branding.”
MISCONCEPTIONS ABOUT CUSTOM APPAREL
While custom apparel is on the rise, only a limited number of distributors are selling custom options to their clients. Much of this is due to lack of proper education on how custom apparel works and how to sell it.
Custom = Expensive
There is an industry perception that a unique custom program costs too much and is not competitive with off-the-shelf merchandise. Bishop and Lott wholeheartedly agree there are more cases than not when, in fact, a custom-designed shirt can easily beat an off-the-shelf shirt in price.
“It depends on the type of fabric with which you’re dealing as well as where the product is manufactured,” explains Bishop. “If the fabric is available—and we stock a lot of fabrics—we will manufacture the product in our Vancouver facility. We don’t have any duty to pay, so we can price the order a lot more competitively than one being fulfilled offshore.”
Lott says, “If we sell a blank polo for $9, chances are we can produce a completely custom shirt very similar to the polo for $8. The difference is in the cost structure and inventory. With a custom program, there is no inventory cost, so there’s less margin. Also, we do better cost-wise if we stick with our own in-stock fabrics. SanMar can source totally new fabrics, but the minimum requirements are higher.”
Custom = High Minimums
Most believe that custom apparel only deals with high minimums, and some suppliers do have minimums upwards of 1,200. However, other suppliers have minimums of 288 or even as low as 144. Again, the minimum can be dictated by the fabric availability as well as the type of embellishments. For example, In Your Face Apparel has no minimums on its rhinestone transfers.
Custom = Complicated Sales Process
Distributors believe custom apparel is complicated to sell to a customer. There are too many choices and too many decisions to be made. Plus, it’s hard to control the quality of the product.
“The biggest value SanMar offers is ease of process. We take out the intimidation factor. Our clients only deal with one sales representative based out of our Seattle location. This person handles all the logistics for that distributor, both domestically and internationally, and we handle quality control,” says Lott.
In actuality, custom apparel can be a simple process, starting the opportunity to have an open dialog with the client and getting the client to feel a sense of ownership for the product.
“Plus, we’re creating tools that make it easy for distributors to use with their clients,” explains Stayman. His company recently launched the virtual shirt builder on its website, www.inyourfaceapparel.com. Distributors can even download this tool to their websites. And, Bishop Garment sends virtual samples for distributors to review.
Custom Apparel = Long Turnaround Time
There is a belief that custom apparel requires a long turnaround time. In reality, just like any other promotional product, the delivery time is dependent on the quantity and availability of suppliers.
“We can turn around shipments in two to four weeks for domestic orders, and in up to eight weeks for offshore manufacturing,” says Bishop. “If we agree to take the order, we hit the date. Period.”
Stayman adds, “We manufacture all of our items domestically, so if we have the fabric, we can turn around an order in less than a week.”
Custom = Offshore Manufacturing
And finally, there is a misconception that all custom apparel must be manufactured offshore, again increasing delivery time and compromising quality control. In fact, where the product is manufactured depends on factors such as fabric sourcing, quantity and delivery time.
“While some of our fabrics come from overseas sources, all of our products are sewn in the U.S.,” says Stayman.
“It’s true that the more labor involved in a garment, the more expensive it is to produce in the U.S.,” says Bishop. “We do as much work as possible in the U.S., but we’ve spent a great deal of time cultivating relationships with overseas manufacturers that meet our high quality standards.”
WHAT’S IN IT FOR DISTRIBUTORS?
Suppliers and distributors agree that the benefits of custom apparel far outweigh any complexities. Here’s why:
Pitching a custom-designed garment positions the distributor as a promotional consultant not an order-taker.
Distributors bring value to their clients at the idea stage. Stayman explains, “The biggest advantage I see is that custom apparel changes the sales dynamic. It puts the emphasis back on service not just on taking an order. No longer are you dealing with a commoditized item—the highest quality t-shirt for the lowest price. Now, you’re creating a distributor-client relationship.”
Brian Haner, president of Kirkland, Washington-based distributor Image Source (UPIC: IMAGESCE), says, “With custom apparel, the distributor delivers exactly what the customer wants, and it takes out much of the competition. Plus, by designing a garment together, both the customer and distributor have more ownership in the product.”
Lott says custom apparel provides some insulation for your business. “You know you have a successful custom program when the customer feels like there’s value added outside the norm. If you get a custom program, then it’s a lot harder to lose business to someone else.”
Private labeling can also lengthen sales relationships and increase total sales.
When distributors show the value of private labeling, they open the door to the potential for more lines of products. “Private labeling adds a sense of ownership and pride for the client,” says Bishop. “They are invested emotionally into the garment and how it represents their company.”
“If you put your own label into a piece, then it becomes yours,” says Harkavy. ”Maybe your client likes the look of an expensive retail brand, but it’s not in the budget. Custom apparel allows us to create the same shirt with the same material and put the customer’s label into it.” It gives the company a high-value reason to come back for more.
Fabric demands can make it easier to close the deal faster.
Fabric availability can be a decision-maker in a sale. After all, there may be 500 yards of that special green chenille to perfectly match your client’s PMS colors. However, it’s available now, and you can’t make promises that it will be available three weeks from now. Fabric allotment can put a sense of urgency on closing a deal.
“A distributor called me about a client who needed robes in a very specific shade of orange. I scoured my sources and located orange terry cloth that was a perfect match to the PMS color. However, there was only enough fabric for 50 robes. A decision had to be made quickly about the fabric,” says Stayman.
As a distributor, Lott has faced similar situations. “We were working on a couple of large programs for Nintendo. I received a call from my supplier telling me he had the fabric in stock right then, so we had to make a decision. If the supplier has to order fabric from a mill, this definitely creates some timeliness in the order processing.”
A custom-program can provide more flexibility for your client’s budget and inventory management process.
Stayman explains, “End-user clients might not have the budget to produce 5,000 shirts at this time—maybe only 100—but they will in the future. You can go ahead and print 5,000 litho transfers, which can be turned around in 24 hours, and produce only the first 100 shirts. This way, pricing is more favorable for your client’s budget, and the sale is staggered over a period of time. In addition, the client does not have to spend dollars on warehousing inventory, providing a more real-time manufacturing model.”
THE TELL-TALE SIGNS
What are some indicators when determining whether a custom apparel program is right for your client?
Clients closely tied to consumer brands
The end users are the drivers of fashion, and this is often reflected in their goals as well. Companies that are closely tied with consumers want to appear forward-thinking and on top of the latest trends. Harkavy says, “These clients are seeking a retail look.”
Key industries that seem to prefer custom apparel include liquor, retail, health, beauty, women’s apparel, automotive, trucking, gaming, banking and high-tech. Clients launching uniform programs are also strong prospects for custom apparel.
Clients looking for something different
When your client wants something different, you should take this as a tell-tale sign of a prospect for custom apparel. This client will not find something unique by going to off-the-shelf products—custom is all about individuality and difference.
Haner explains, “This is a great opportunity for custom apparel because many clients want to do something different—beyond what everyone else is doing. We recently put together a program for Nintendo’s presence at the Los Angeles E3 Expo, the world’s largest gaming show. Nintendo wanted something that worked well for 50 to 60 models who would be demonstrating the games. It was important to have something that stood out and was in a color that would attract attention. So the choice of fabric and custom-dying were key factors.”
Since the client dictates the opportunity, Stayman suggests using the opportunity to really learn what the client likes. “I’ve even suggested that distributors walk the mall with clients and have them point out what they like. By getting a better sense of the client’s vision of ‘unique,’ you can deliver samples beyond their expectations.”
Clients with recurring events
“One of the biggest complaints I hear from distributors is they say they never have enough lead time to do custom apparel,” says Lott. “I always suggest they look for customers with recurring programs, such as the annual sales event or annual holiday party. Approach your clients—say in August or September, instead of November for the holiday party order. Say this year you want to really do something special and unique for them. Recurring programs allow you to plan in advance with enough lead time.”
TAKE CONTROL
And don’t be shy about asking a supplier to join you in a client meeting. “I’ve been asked to join distributors on sales calls, and each one has ended in a deal for the distributor,” says Bishop. “It helps to have the custom manufacturer there to help your client envision the possibilities and see samples.”
Don’t lose out on that next shirt order just because you couldn’t compete on a commoditized product. Instead, take the high road, stay customer-centric and sell with confidence by stretching your customer’s mind with custom recommendations. Remember, when it comes to selling apparel, you’re in the driver’s seat. PPB
Cassandra Johnson is a marketing communications consultant for PPAI’s Regional Affiliates, delivering more than 15 years of expertise in areas such as public relations, direct marketing and e-marketing. She is also a freelance writer, supporting clients in a variety of industries, including hospitality, financial services and technology.
Seven Key Questions To Ask Your Customer
The distributors and suppliers in this article all agreed that these are critical questions to ask your clients when considering a custom apparel program:
1. What are the demographics of the end user? Who will be wearing the garment?
2. Why do you want something unique? What statement are you trying to make? Do you already have a concept in mind?
3. What is your budget?
4. What is your delivery date?
5. Is there a possibility of reorders?
6. Are there sizing requirements?
7. Do you prefer accent colors in your shirt design? (This could affect fabric minimums.)
–CJ
Case Study
As a part of the entertainment industry, a team of animators knew looking stylish and confident was critical to success and wanted a super-cool, retro-style warm-up jacket for the crew to wear at work and play.
The Client’s Mission: Launch the simple styling of a classic “track-style” zip front jacket into the 21st century with specific colors and silhouette.
A One-Of-A-Kind Solution: These animators had a clear understanding of what they wanted and actually sent drawings of the concepts to Bishop Garment Company. Using their line drawings as a road map, a pattern was built around the design vision.
The heavyweight Techno-Dri Coolplus moisture-wicking fabric offered the hand and drape the client wanted. As an added benefit, this fabric’s permanent push-pull, moisture-management construction provided a technical edge over more traditional materials. By combining Bishop Garment’s knowledge of traditional screen-printing techniques with a vibrant color palette, it delivered a truly customized retro-style warm-up jacket that was a big hit with the entire crew.
–CJ
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